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Lauterbacher F1, 26cc. Scale 1:6. (Sold)

Lauterbacher F1, 2005
Top speed is app. 90-100 km/t with current gearing ratio.
Size: L 95 cm, W 44 cm, H 23 cm. Weight: 11.3 kg (Empty tank)

CY 26RC with 3,2HP @ 14.000 rpm.(= 290 hp / t)
Max rpm: 19.500
Idle rpm: 4000 rpm
Clutch engage @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 1,90 nm @ 10.000 rpm

The complete restoration of a Lauterbacher F1

When I first bought this Lauterbacher F1, I could still sense a pulse, but the once royal pride and great ‘king of racing’ attitude had faded. The general condition of the car was that of a used racecar..well used.. It really needed some T.L.C, starting with a serious cleanup, and replacement of various components, and I was really feeling up to the task. There was a bag of various spare parts on the side, and later I really appreciated that. Additional components were purchased from Lauterbacher.com.

When I rolled the car into my garage, next to my fully upgraded FG-Sportsline 08 Porsche Carrera, they immediately stared to make fun of one another, and I had to put on quite an attitude to end the name-calling!

Procedure, in short:
The car was taken to the OR, and then photographed in detail, thus producing a ‘how to reassemble-guide’. It was then gently taken completely apart, washing every metal component in turpentine, and polishing it using “Autosol”. The result was a brand new-looking component, completely free of dirt and old oil etc. Then every component and joint was examined, and replaced as needed. All the way down to nuts and bolts. All plastic and carbon components were cleaned in a similar way, inspected and replaced here and there. Details below...

The bottom plate, and the aluminum rails that form the chassis, was in a real need of cleaning. Luckily nothing was bent or broken, so no replacing here! The underside of the bottom does show scratches after various curb-surfs, but hey... that’s supposed to be there, right? :-) The upper side of the bottom took three times of polish to shine like new, before the rails could be re-fitted, but once done it really improved the general mood of the car.

Rear end:
The suspension arms in this end was intact, which was great! However, the carbon base plate (holding the right suspension arms) was broken, as was a small carbon part by the rear right upright. In fact, the right rear wheel (with suspension and all) was coming off!! Two aluminum arms connecting the push arms with the shock absorbers was bent and twisted, and pretty much every bearing was quite worn.
Other than that, only a thick layer of oil mixed with dirt grass had to be removed.

The base plate and the plates by the uprights had to be changed to aluminum, as the carbon versions are no longer available. Wheel bearings were all replaced with new ones, as was the ten bearings in the entire drive train, incl. the two at the differential.
The twisted connector arms at the shock absorbers were both replaced, and just for sport, I replaced the gear wheels (41 +24 teeth). The old ones had chewed a few rocks, so it had to go see the dentist. The shock absorbers was serviced and tested, and the rear brake circuit was serviced and given new rubber seals. Testing the brakes would have to wait until the front end was done to, so I’ll get back to that.

Then the entire rear end was mounted again, resulting in a perfect, crisp condition chassis, all shiny and new looking! Soon the car regained some of it’s impressive, powerful look, and a slight smile was starting to show. It now knew that it was not being chopped up and sold in pieces.

Engine and exhaust system:
These components were really, really dirty; covered in oil, dirt, grass, exhaust and what not. The carburetor was worn, and the engine was in need of, at the very least, a new piston ring. The engine is of the quick-mount type, and the exhaust pipes only push together, not forming a tight seal because the silicon seal was missing. The result was quite a buildup of drool on the bottom of the car.
The exhaust was working (how can it not...) but not tight anywhere, and was not nice to look at. The silencer was no longer available, so I had to put on my thinking cap and decide either to rebuild the old, or to replace the entire exhaust system. I’ll get back to that later..

The air filter looked as if it had been used to bury something in the garden. All the inside stuff was cleaned, and the top cover was renewed. New seals made sure that no “false air” could enter the carburetor / engine.

By pure chance a brand new 26cc engine became available, and I therefore decided to upgrade while I was at it. (The old was a 23cc.) This is also where I had the first setback: When I was attempting to unscrew the little arm on the throttle on the axel on the carburetor, the little screw broke.. (@&#&$) I had to replace the entire axel.
The three-padded adjustable clutch was fitted, as was the engine quick mount bracket, a nice blue pull handle, and a blue choker handle. A new cover for the air filter quite literary topped it all off, completing the new power plant. By this time, the engine was mounted in the chassis, but the carburetor had to wait for a little spacer plate between the carburetor and the air filter.

As mentioned earlier, the silencer part of the original exhaust has been discontinued by the vendor. Options were to either rebuild / repair, or to replace the entire system. Then, out of the blue, came the former owner of the car! He had a complete, chromed exhaust system that he’d sell me, so I got that and put it on. The old was saved as spare, just in case.

Front end:
Both upper suspension arms and a steering rod was bent, all four front wheel bearings was shot, servo saver had been beaten with a locomotive, a bearing as missing in the protection system that the lower suspension arms are mounted on towards the rear, and the hydraulic brake  pistons and main cylinders was stuck. Two aluminum arms connecting the push arms with the shock absorbers, and the right steering arm, were all bent and twisted.
Armed with coffee:
One of the suspension arms was fully replaced with a spare that came with the car, while the other was only partially replaced using spare components, also supplied with the car.
The brake system as serviced and given new rubber seals (..and it better work, the main cylinders are no longer available..) All bearings, steering rod, steering arm, and the connector arms at the shock absorbers were replaced. The servo saver could have been repaired enough to work, but as this is a critical part to risk a failure in, I replaced it fully with a brand new. Various plates were replaced with carbon versions, as these carbon plates came with the car in a bag.

At this point, the whole project came to a sudden and chilling hold. A bearing needed for the protection system, located as the lowest component in the front structure and therefore supposed to go on first, was missing! ..and it got worse: It was discontinued. While I thought about a solution, I went ahead fitted the now cleaned tank, and the carbon servo plate. All three servos were tested, and fitted as well. The next little while was spent finding an alternative for the missing bearing, and once that was done, work could continue.

Then the rest of the front end was mounted on the chassis again, including the serviced shock absorbers. Cables and hydraulic lines were fixed in their special little clips, and it was about time to start testing the brake system.
Oh, by the way: A small change to the brake system configuration. When I got the car, the throttle servo also operated the front brakes, while the rear brakes had a servo completely to them self. I changed that a bit, so that the throttle servo also operates the rear brakes while the front brakes have their own servo.
Why? Well... imagine that the throttle servo gets stuck at high throttle.. the car takes off. Now you would need the most efficient brakes, the front brakes, but... with the old configuration you would not have those, right? Locking the rear wheels might not kill the engine because as the rpm drops below the clutch release speed, the engine would just fry clutch and bell before you would get to the car and kill the engine.
That cannot happen with the new configuration. If the throttle servo gets stuck, then you would lose the ability to utilize the less efficient rear brakes, but you would be able to fully apply the front brakes, stopping / slowing the car. It might spin the tires, but so what? Should this ever happen I’d head for the grass anyway. Some would put on an automatic kill-switch, but I don’t like them.. It’s a source of malfunction, not great in a race. On that queue, back to building:

All major parts were there now … the car was close to being done. Life was restored. You should have seen the car! It was now absolutely sure that great times were ahead! Everything was shining like new, and all traces of (ab)use was gone.

Radio box:
The old electronics box was in a terrible condition, and filled with grass and dirt, and the lit was missing.
I fully replaced it with a brand new one, and started to fit the on/off switch, the connector for the battery, the 1800uF 16V capacitor, and then the newly acquired Futaba r603 receiver. Then a small surprise: The wire for the steering servo (of all!) was partially broken right where it used to enter the radio box! Hmm, and the wires was juuuust a bit too short. Armed with a soldering iron, cutters, isolation tubes and such, the damaged section was cut out, and a new, slightly longer section was inserted. That pretty much concluded the electronics.

Now I could connect the servo's, but first a golden rule of thumb: When the servos were tested and mounted, I tried to center the arms, but as this can never be 100% accurate, I highly recommend to disconnect the servo arms prior to first power on. First check that your transmitter settings (end- and center points etc.) are unadjusted. Then, when power is turned on in the car, the servos will center them self. Then reconnect the arms. Failing to do so might cause a servo to be mechanically blocked when it tries to return to center.
Having done as described above, I connected the servos to the throttle, and main brake cylinders

Below are images from start to finish.