Ohio Class, Ballistic Missile Nuclear Powered Submarine, USS Kentucky SSBN737




The electronics, remote control configuration:

My system consists of two different parts, one pre-fabricated remote control system, and the self-made electronic system. They interact, but can be referred to as two separate systems. 

If we compare this sub’s movement pattern to a typical remote controlled car, it’s similar until we get to the “dive” thing. In other words, we have that extra dimension in the picture, as we are able to move in a three dimensional space. Not even a normal air plane can keep up with us, cause we can travel in reverse as well as forward. A helicopter might be able to copy our pattern of movements, but that technology is completely different, and deserves no comparison.

The remote controls quite many functions, and I'll try to show you how I configured mine:

1) Engine speed / direction:
The engine speed and direction
is controlled by the left stick up and down directions.
The
bow thruster is controlled by the left and right directions of the same stick.
(Please see Add-on’s, things you might / might not include: sub section "J" for details.)

2) Rudders / dive planes:
The rudders are controlled by the right stick left and right direction.
The dive planes are controlled by the right stick up and down direction.

3)
The main dive system (MBT, valves / pumps):
The “Dive” and “Surface” function are controlled by simple push buttons (Not in picture).
Both control a Graupner Mini Switch, that is either on or off. The switches switch either GND (ground) or Vcc (+12V) to the dive valves
, thus activating the selected function.

4) Navigational lights:
The lights are turned on and off by a simple switch (Not in picture).
This also controls a Graupner Mini Switch. This switch switches the GND (ground) connection on or off to all of the lights.

Additional switches:
A) A switch
(Not in picture) mixes the thruster with the rudders. When flipped, the rudders and thruster both react to the right stick left and right direction. This is useful for high performance maneuvering during forward travel, as it greatly enhances rudder performance.
B) A switch
(Not in picture) mixes the "dive" and "surface", with the dive planes. When flipped, the MBT are flooded when the right stick orders "Down angle" on the dive planes, and blows the MBT when the right stick orders "Up angle" on the dive planes. This is useful when wanting to do a little quick diving / surfacing.
     


The transmitter in picture is not mine.

Channel:     Target: Function:                        The software for the Graupner MC-12 to suit this config. are as follows:

Mixer A: Mix=+100% Offset=0% Ach=36 Asw=5 (Socket 5)
Mixer B: Mix= -100% Offset=0% Bch=35 Bsw=4 (Socket 4)
Mixer C: Mix=+100% Offset=0% Cch=42 C
sw=3 (Socket 3)

Mixer A & B are controlled by a 2-pole
d switch connected to socket 4 & 5.
Mixer C are controlled by a 1-pole switch connected to socket 3.
1 Regulator Main engine
2 Regulator Thruster
3 Servo Dive planes
4 Servo Rudders
5 Mini Switch     Surface command        
6 Mini Switch Dive command
7 Mini Switch Nav. lights.

The remote control system should be bought as a finished ready to use system, containing channels / functions enough to accommodate the above specified requirements. The Graupner MC-12 does this well for me.
If you want additional on / off functions (such as compressor, missile / torpedo launce or similar), add those to the receivers ability to supply these simple either "on" or "off" channels. This should not be hard to find, but remember to check if there is any rules and regulations where you are at concerning which channels are used for model boats, cars and air planes, both for your own and others sake.

NOTICE: High frequency radio does not penetrate water all that well. In salty waters this is only a few feet down, but in fresh waters this is 6 --> 8 ft. depending on your transmitter and antenna orientation / location. This fact often limits the diving depth to only a fraction of what the design could otherwise endure. To solve this issue, I came up with this idea:
Real subs have a towed sonar that is used to cover the otherwise deaf angles behind the sub's own propeller noise. The towed sonar is basically a microphone, dragged in a long cable way behind the sub. If you build a "towed sonar", and drag it behind the sub in a long wire, and then construct the sonar to ride in the surface, then you can place your antenna in this surface-towed sonar, GREATLY improving max. diving depth. The towed sonar could be constructed so that it can be detached if not used, as the cable will take up too much space within the hull. The only danger is that the cable might get entangled in something (or somebody) during a run.





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