|The electronics, remote control configuration:
My system consists of two different parts, one pre-fabricated remote control system, and the self-made electronic system. They interact, but can be referred to as two separate systems.
If we compare this sub’s movement pattern to a typical remote controlled car, it’s similar until we get to the “dive” thing. In other words, we have that extra dimension in the picture, as we are able to move in a three dimensional space. Not even a normal air plane can keep up with us, cause we can travel in reverse as well as forward. A helicopter might be able to copy our pattern of movements, but that technology is completely different, and deserves no comparison.
The remote controls quite many functions, and I'll try
to show you how I configured mine:
speed / direction:
The engine speed and direction
is controlled by the left stick up
and down directions.
bow thruster is controlled
by the left and
right directions of the same stick.
(Please see Add-on’s, things you might / might not
section "J" for details.)
2) Rudders / dive planes:
The rudders are controlled by the right stick left and right
The dive planes are controlled by the right stick up and down
The main dive system (MBT, valves / pumps):
The “Dive” and “Surface” function are controlled by simple push buttons (Not in picture).
Both control a Graupner Mini Switch, that is either on or off. The
switches switch either GND (ground) or Vcc (+12V) to the dive valves , thus
activating the selected function.
4) Navigational lights:
The lights are turned on and off by a simple switch (Not in picture).
This also controls a Graupner Mini Switch. This switch switches the
GND (ground) connection on or off to all of the lights.
A) A switch (Not in picture)
mixes the thruster with
the rudders. When flipped, the rudders and
thruster both react to the right stick left and right direction.
This is useful for high performance maneuvering during forward
travel, as it
greatly enhances rudder performance.
B) A switch (Not in picture) mixes the "dive" and "surface",
with the dive planes. When flipped, the MBT are flooded when the
right stick orders "Down angle" on the dive planes, and blows the
MBT when the right stick orders "Up angle" on the dive planes.
This is useful when wanting to do a little quick diving / surfacing.
The transmitter in picture is not mine.
The software for the Graupner MC-12 to
suit this config. are as follows:
Mixer A: Mix=+100% Offset=0% Ach=36 Asw=5 (Socket 5)
Mixer B: Mix= -100% Offset=0% Bch=35 Bsw=4 (Socket 4)
Mixer C: Mix=+100% Offset=0% Cch=42 Csw=3
Mixer A & B are controlled by a 2-poled switch connected to socket 4
Mixer C are controlled by a 1-pole switch connected to socket 3.
The remote control system should be bought as a finished
ready to use system, containing channels / functions enough to
accommodate the above specified requirements. The
Graupner MC-12 does this well for me.
If you want additional on / off functions (such as compressor,
missile / torpedo launce or
similar), add those to the receivers ability to supply these simple
either "on" or "off" channels. This should not be hard to find, but remember to check if there is any rules and regulations where you are at concerning which channels are used for model boats, cars and air planes, both for your own and others sake.
NOTICE: High frequency radio does not penetrate water all that
well. In salty waters this is only a few feet down, but in fresh waters
this is 6 --> 8 ft. depending on your transmitter and antenna
orientation / location. This fact often limits the diving depth to only
a fraction of what the design could otherwise endure. To solve this
issue, I came up with this idea:
Real subs have a towed sonar that is used to cover the otherwise deaf
angles behind the sub's own propeller noise. The towed sonar is
basically a microphone, dragged in a long cable way behind the sub. If
you build a "towed sonar", and drag it behind the sub in a
long wire, and then construct the sonar to ride in the surface, then you
can place your antenna in this surface-towed sonar, GREATLY improving
max. diving depth. The towed sonar could be constructed so that it can
be detached if not used, as the cable will take up too much space within
the hull. The only danger is that the cable might get entangled in something (or
somebody) during a run.